The festival of lights is around the corner, bringing with it a distinctive visual language: the glow of lamps, the richness of gold, the pleasure of dressing for the occasion and the exchange of gifts chosen to last. These sensibilities find an echo in fine watchmaking, where colour, precious materials and painstaking craftsmanship come together in objects to be treasured over time.
The watches that follow interpret that sensibility in very different ways, from Grand Seiko’s meticulous Japanese artistry and Patek Philippe’s refined gem-setting to Jacob & Co.’s exuberant use of colour and Roger Dubuis’ theatrical take on horological storytelling.
1. Grand Seiko
SBGD228 Red Lion
Few colours feel as closely tied to the festive season as red. Grand Seiko’s SBGD228 Red Lion takes that association into the realm of high jewellery, with a wine-red mother-of-pearl dial set within an 18-carat rose-gold case. Limited to just eight pieces, the watch is adorned with 267 diamonds and 26 Mozambique garnets, whose deep, warm tones lend the composition its character.
The lion, Grand Seiko’s emblem of strength and dignity, informs the design, most visibly in the diamond-set lugs that recall its sharpened claws. The craftsmanship continues inside, where the manually wound Spring Drive Calibre 9R01 is made by the brand’s Micro Artist Studio. Its three-barrel construction provides an impressive eight-day power reserve. An additional strap by Kyoto Leather, drawing on traditional Japanese techniques, completes a watch in which precious materials and specialist craftsmanship receive equal attention. Priced at $273,000 (Dh1.002 million approximately), the watch is currently available through Grand Seiko boutiques internationally, with UAE availability yet to be confirmed.
2. Patek Philippe Gondolo Ladies First Joaillerie Ref. 7043/250G-001
Green brings a different mood to the festive palette, and Patek Philippe’s Gondolo Ladies First Joaillerie makes particularly elegant use of it. Part of a new six-watch collection, this white-gold reference pairs diamonds with 12 trapeze-cut green tsavorites, which serve as hour markers against the richly set dial.
The gem-setting is extensive: 687 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling 3.11 carats, are distributed across the dial, flange, case, lugs and buckle. Green-coated white-gold hands and a glossy green alligator strap bring the various elements together. The shaped case draws on the Gondolo’s Art Deco heritage, lending the watch a distinctive silhouette. Powered by the slim E15 quartz calibre, it is designed for straightforward, everyday wear — an appealing counterpoint to the exuberance of its jewellery. Introduced in October 2026, the Joaillerie versions are priced at $68,768, with UAE pricing yet to be announced.
3. Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Baguette Pastel Arlequino
For those who favour a more flamboyant expression of luxury, Jacob & Co. offers a riot of colour in its Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Baguette Pastel Arlequino. The 42mm white-gold case is set with 194 baguette-cut pastel sapphires and 32 diamonds, while the dial adds another 139 sapphires and 23 diamonds in a geometric arrangement inspired by the costume of Arlecchino from Italian commedia dell’arte.
The most intriguing detail sits within the movement. Alongside the flying tourbillon at six o’clock is a balance wheel set with 54 brilliant-cut diamonds – an unusual proposition for a component whose mass and distribution are critical to accurate timekeeping. The automatic JCFA02 calibre offers a 72-hour power reserve, while another 234 brilliant-cut diamonds adorn its bridges. Created as a unique piece, the watch brings Jacob & Co.’s appetite for elaborate gem-setting into direct conversation with the mechanics beneath it. Price upon request.
4. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights of the Round Table: The Metamorph Merlin
Roger Dubuis approaches extravagance through storytelling. The Excalibur Knights of the Round Table: The Metamorph Merlin is the concluding chapter in the brand’s Merlin trilogy, with 12 hand-sculpted pink-gold knights arranged around an elaborate three-dimensional dial.
Green dominates the scene, recalling the forest in which Merlin transforms into a white stag in Arthurian legend. Fifty-seven individually crafted blocks in different materials, finishes and heights give the dial its depth, while hand-engraved scenes on the case flank extend the narrative beyond the face. The 45mm pink-gold case houses the automatic RD821 calibre, certified with the Poinçon de Genève hallmark and offering a 48-hour power reserve. Limited to 28 pieces, the Metamorph Merlin is available to order in the UAE.
Each watch offers a different take on festive splendour: the warmth of garnets, the richness of green tsavorites, the brilliance of pastel sapphires or the intricate theatre of a miniature mythical world. In a season when light and craftsmanship hold particular significance, these are objects that make their presence felt long after the celebrations have ended.
Source: Khaleej Times